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Mailinglist:wwp@yahoogroups.com
Sender:Roger Howard
Date/Time:2005-Jan-20 23:22:00
Subject:Re: HOW TO GET STARTED?

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wwp@yahoogroups.com: Re: HOW TO GET STARTED? Roger Howard 2005-Jan-20 23:22:00
On Jan 20, 2005, at 2:38 PM, mark1schuster wrote:

>
>
> When I saw the message headed 'How to get started' I eagerly read
> the replies.  Yes, like other amateurs I've had good cylindrical
> results but I had no idea of how to get started with 360 x 180.  At
> last I was going to get an answer.  Well that's what I thought but
> what I got was lots of accolades for Panorama Tools.  PTools sounded
> wonderful and better still, free of charge so I spent quite a bit of
> time reading up on PTools on the net and do accept it provides
> excellent results - I've looked at so many examples - but I think
> I'd rather pay for something less time consuming and more user
> friendly.
> So come on guys and gals, tell me about something I can use.  I'd
> rather spend my time being creative than honing my software skills.
> Better still, how can I immerse myself in a sphere with a bog
> ordinary digital camera with the usual 38mm (equ) lens?

Did you consider that maybe this was, in earnest, the best 
recommendation that most people have? That it's used widely precisely 
because it delivers great results, not because we like beating 
ourselves up?

You can pay $400 for Stitcher, but you might end up fighting it even 
more. Most people like its interface better on first blush - it seems 
more intuituive - but the more you demand of the app, the less it 
delivers. PanoTools based apps (PTMac, PTGUI, PTAssembler, etc) provide 
a level of control that enables the best possible results from your 
work, if you learn to use them (only one is necessary - they all do the 
same things). Panoramas - especially full spherical panos - aren't 
necessarily easy, especially if you demand quality at the same time 
(otherwise, you could go shoot 2 shot spheres with IPIX, which is 
certainly easier, or even a one-shot lens system).

With a 38mm lens on a consumer camera, you're really going to need 
proper nodal point alignment which means a tilting pano head of some 
kind, and tripod.

I consider honing my software skills to be a major component of 
enabling creativity; I don't hear designers demanding that they get 
something easier than Photoshop and Illustrator... it's about using the 
right tools for the job, and knowing your tools is almost always a 
prerequisite for creative expression - whether you paint, play guitar, 
shoot panos, or design and build homes.

But yes, if you just want easy, then it's a compromise... but you've 
placed a lot of restrictions on what you want, and they aren't all 
mutually compatible if the goal is to produce spherical panos - a low 
end camera, 38mm equiv lens, no mention of a tripod and pano head.

I consider PT more user friendly than the alternatives. Let me define 
what I mean by user friendly. None of the PanoTools products are 
pretty; none are developed by shining GUI designers (no offense guys). 
That's plainly obvious. What they do provide is the clearest path from 
source files to a finished pano - with other tools, I simply don't know 
what they are doing, and don't always understand why they fail to 
stitch on certain images, and so on. With PanoTools, there's no mystery 
meat; it's all out in the open. Yes, it may look ugly and complicated; 
frankly, it's not complicated, just open - all the control you could 
ever want, but with companion tools like autopano and enblend you can 
very often get a good-enough pano with virtually no work.

If I was just shooting cylindrical or rectilinear panos, I would 
probably never have switched to PanoTools from my previous stitchers. 
Now that I have, I use PT for everything. I have also trained folks 
much less interested in details and control than myself.

The challenge with these questions on the mailing lists, is there's a 
massive variety of workflows involved, yet many people who come to the 
lists at first want all the answers in a single document. Lens 
parameters, photography advice, nodal point characteristics, 
everything. Yet they're probably using a lens, panohead, and other 
equipment and techniques that are fairly unique to them. So best we can 
do is advise  on a skeleton workflow. Here's a pretty high level, but 
all-inclusive, PanoTools workflow for instance:

1) Import images into PanoTools-based stitcher of your choice.
2) Estimate lens FOV (38mm in this case) and plug it in with the proper 
lens type (equirectangular)
3) For the first three image pairs, set 6 or more control points for 
each pair.
4) For the rest of the image pairs, set 3 or 4 control points at least 
- don't forget to set control points between the first and last images 
(assuming they overlap) to "close the loop"
5) Optimize for FOV using control points from the first 3 image pairs. 
Optimize for FOV, a, b, and c, again using just the first 3 image 
pairs.
6) Optimize for yaw, pitch, roll for all image pairs
7) Optimize for all parameters and all image pairs.
8) Set your pano output size and format and then render.
9) Blend if necessary

Note, this might again seem complex; but steps 3 and 4 are the most 
time consuming, and yet can often be completely automated (autopano, 
XPoints, etc). Steps 5 through 7 take all of a minute or two. Step 9 
can also be completely automated (enblend).

That said, Stitcher can be pretty easy, but for sphericals with lots of 
source files (long lens like you're using), you're gonna need REALLY 
good nodal point alignment and lens calibration to get a good fitting 
sphere in Stitcher. PanoTools is much more forgiving.

Hope this helps,

Roger


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